Got a stamp at Santa Marina Cathedral to prove we were walking the last 100kms. The countryside is beautiful, intensively farmed; it's autumn and already some of the animals are indoors. It warmed up considerably and we reached Morgade albergue at 2pm. Had a beer and peanuts in the sun, then a nap.
We are both feeling okay, we know that we have less than 100kms to finish.
Left albergue at 8am after coffee and toast. Walked downhill for two and a half hours dropping 500 metres. It was rather steep. Coffee at Triacastela, weather still cool but dry. We walked along the valley 9kms to Samos - 2 hours - not bad. As we got closer to Samos there was a gap in the hedge, and there was the monastery, what a sight. Sat there and appreciated the view, took a photo of Ian. Checked into the monastery albergue. Mixta paella for lunch. Tour of the monastery at 3pm, there are only 14 monks in residence. It is beautifully kept, took photo of the monks cell door. When you consider it has been here since the 9th century, still the largest monastery in Europe, we wonder what the future holds due to lack of monks. Attending Vespers the Abbott, frail, in his late 80's led the service with difficulty. Afterwards we had delicious soup with a couple we bumped into at the service.
Over breakfast we discovered that someone had stolen our towel, damn. Louisa who is managing the albergue kindly gave us a replacement. We sent our bags on for the second time. Started walking up the hill, the villages have an alpine feel about them. Walked through bush and farmland. First coffee after an hour at Lafaba. Kept climbing and reached O'Conner at midday just in time for mass, which we attended. Ian had communion. Sandwich and a beer and back on the trail 1.30pm. Shortly after the skys opened up. Heavy rain for 3 hours; reached albergue 4.30pm soaking wet. We had walked 23kms. Shower, sleep and had an amazing shared meal with approximately 60 other pilgrims. We are at 1200metres and it is quite cold, the heater is on in our room drying our clothes. Samos monastery tomorrow.
Left albergue at 8am walked along the river Rio Pereje for most of the morning. Very pleasant. Weather quite warm. Arrived at albergue Magdalena at1pm. Had lunch and both had a good sleep in the afternoon. My eye is feeling better but infection is still there. Pilgrim meal with Irish couple Tony and Gladys. Bed early.
The conjunctivitis in the left eye had spread to the right eye this morning. Decided it was time to see a doctor. Taxi driver Amundo took us firstly to pilgrim hospital, but they only dealt with feet and legs; so he took us to the general hospital. The doctor prescribed antibiotics. As this took most of the morning we caught an autobus to Villafranca. There are European cycling championship races on in Ponterrada, all accommodation booked out, streets closed off. We would have liked to have had a look around the city, there is a Knights Templar castle which has had extensive renovations. Villafranca is a combination of old and new; blends together quite well. If Loma up to walking tomorrow, we will try and do about 20kms.
Left albergue at 8am without packs as they were being transported for the first time. Climbed steadily to Foncebadon where we had a coffee. Two kms to La Cruz de Ferro where we said a prayer with a couple from San Francisco. Left a stone from Titahi Bay Beach and also one from White Rock, Cape Palliser. Walked to Mandarin where the Templars were based. Had another coffee. We had scenic views of the valleys and small villages. The decent down to Acebo was quite drastic, took it slowly. Had lunch in Acebo, beautiful charming and historic. Arrived at Riego De Ambros, our packs waiting for us. We had walked about 21kms and we're feeling pretty good. Shower, rest and nice pilgrim meal. Not too sure about our destination tomorrow. Heading for Ponferrada first, 14kms.
Left Astorga in the rain which soon cleared. Easy walk to Santa Catalina, arriving at 11am. Debated whether to cancel our reservation or walk on. Glad we stayed. Salad, fish and flan for dinner which we shared with Barbara, Saskatchewan and Jan and Caroline from Perth. Two bottles of vino tinto, a very enjoyable dinner. Both slept well and woke up very refreshed. Pleasant 12.5kms walk to Rabanal. Checked in to albergue N.S del Pilar, we had private room booked. Did a big wash and got the whole lot dry in the sun. Early dinner, then Vespers at 7pm. A nice hot chocolate on the way back to albergue. Early night as it is a big day tomorrow. Climbing higher than the Pyrenees so sending packs forward for the first time. Buenos noches.
Left the albergue in the dark and rain at 7.15am. Solid walking for 3 hours till our coffee break. Arrived in Astorga at noon and Checked into Siervas de Maria Asco Albergue. We were assigned a room of our own with a nice view. After the usual, lunch, shower, nap, we explored the town with our Korean friend Sun. The town is wonderful, lots of plazas, beautiful cathedral which is closed on Mondays (today). We had a cup of hot chocolate, the best ever. It was like drinking melted chocolate, absolutely yummy. For dinner I cooked spag bol, with a twist. Tomato "sauce" with some ham, peppers and artichokes. Not bad, and we drank a bottle of rosé; Sun , Ian and I. Sun leaves Madrid for Korea the day after us so we are going to meet up again.
Shared meal last night was fantastic; salad, cold pumpkin soup, paella and flan for dessert; plus vino tinto. After finishing dinner, Ian called the staff into the dining room and everyone applauded them for their great effort. Good night sleep, nice breakfast, cereal, yogart, juice, toast etc. Left albergue at 8am, walked along the road for approximately 11kms. Coffee break, as well as beer break before arriving at San Miguel Albergue in Hospital de Orbigo. We were quite tired from walking on the road, it is harder than the tracks. At 5pm it was 28 degrees. Only walking 15kms again tomorrow.
Left hotel at 7am after breakfast. Caught the last 20 minutes of mass at Iglesia San Froilan in Virgin del Camino. Coffee in San Miguel after realizing we had taken the alternative pilgrimage route. So we cut across country for an hour and rejoined the main pilgrim track at Chozas de Abajo. Had a beer and opened up a tin of sardines to have with crackers. We walked 4.6kms along the road to our albergue, in about an hour. The countryside was pretty boring but we did take a photo of fields of butter beans. The weather was mild. The usual, shower, rest, aperitif. Having a shared vegetarian meal at albergue tonight.
We are in really good state of mind and body. Booked in Pension in Santiago for 10th and 11th of October. News of the election is no surprise.
Woke up to rain, actually slept in until 7.30am. Did some emails. Tried to go to 9am mass but couldn't find the correct door to enter the church. Coffee and planned our day. Checked the pilgrims way out of the inner part of the city. Bought a couple of ponchos and generally wandered around the old section of León. We have Decided that the old rural villages hold more interest for us. Moved hotels after lunch.Visited the cathedral in the afternoon, magnificent in the way it to was constructed and the stained glass windows were beautiful. Early dinner, bumped into Don Toronto who has a bad leg. It was good chatting about all our experiences. A brisk half hour walk before bed.
Lovely breakfast at the albergue, everyone sitting at the table being very social, nobody rushing to hit the road. Country bus back to Burgos through interesting villages, mostly older passengers. Coffee in Burgos before catching 10.30am bus to Leon. Another interesting bus ride, pilgrims filled the bus at Carrion De los Condes. This trip took 3 hours. Walked from Leon bus station Aveineda Ordono to our hotel near the cathedral. After checking in went and had a bite to eat with a beer. Back to hotel and gave reception ALL our washing; we couldn't go out until we got it back ! Walked around the historic area (in clean clothes) pizza and beer for dinner.
Left Albergue at 7am after breakfast. The rain had passed over, but it was still dark and cold. Ian struggled after a bad nights sleep. Coffee stop at Hontanas perked us both up. Passed through the ruins of San Antón, we were amazed. Huge 15th Century Nunnery that thousands of women must have spent their lives, is now all in ruins. The albergue in Castrojeriz that we planned to stay in was closed for the day so we ended up in another albergue with a private room and our own bathroom. We are very tired physically and mentally and have decided to skip the next few days of the meseta and autobus to Leon.
Need time to recuperate and will stay at least 2 nights before tackling the mountains.
On Sunday 7th September after Irache Wine Fountain we came across Paul and Jan. from Belgium. They were having a rest on a large rock. We stopped to chat, where are you from? How are you going? The older chap Paul did all the talking and explained that they were not father and son but friends. Paul is 75 and Jan 42. We asked Paul if he had walked the Camino before and his reply " count how many". On his hat he had some badges, so I counted. Ten. So at 75 he was doing the Camino and leading Jan who is blind. They had a small rope approximately 30cm long which they both held. Both of them were lean and had a good stride, walking in unison. We have seen them a couple of times since and always say hello. Today we met them again on the meseta, and Ian asked if he could take their photo, with me (terrible of me). I told them that I am now going to call them John Paul, they laughed, said like the Pope. Paul said he will remember me cause of the name I gave them!
Left hotel at 6.30am, had breakfast near the cathedral. It took us a while to walk through the city; it was lovely and cool and easy walking. Two hours to walk 8kms to our coffee break, Tajados. We walked through the relative wilderness of the meseta and came upon Fuente De Praotorre where we each had a nectarine bought off a mobile fruit vendor. We arrived at Hornillos del Camino 6 hours/21kms, managed to secure 2 of the last 5 beds. It was 12.30pm, and this is very common. We felt strong enough to walk another 5.8kms if we had to. Pictures today are of coffee break and where we are staying tonight.
Woke up this morning to steady rain and cooler temperatures. We knew there were 3 steady hill climbs to San Juan, so decided to give ourselves a break and caught the 7.30am autobus to Burgos, 36kms by road, good move. Left our bags at the Accommodation, Lomas had a haircut (short), and then we explored the historical part of the city. The cathedral is the most magnificent building we have encountered in Spain so far. El Cid is buried here. We were in the cathedral 2 hours, with headphones, there are so many chapels from different periods, each with their own sarcophagus. Walking the meseta tomorrow to Hornillos, 21kms.
An easy morning, left hotel at 7.30, coffee at 8.30am at Tosantos. Checked into albergue 11.00am, only walked 14kms. shower and lunch, Ian put beers in freezer to cool them down. We have finished our 14th day and there is 330 miles to Santiago. We are contemplating autobus some of the desert between Burgos and Leon. We have a few blisters, but otherwise our health and spirits are fine. This area was notorious for bandits that preyed on pilgrims. There is a pilgrim hospice of St Anthony the Abbot, which we will check out after a rest.
Stayed in Santo Domingo albergue last night, 162 other pilgrims. We managed to get bottom bunks next to the windows. Met a lovely lady from South Africa with a blister on the ball of her foot, nasty. She needs to rest her foot before continuing. Historic section of town is outstanding. Met John and Linda and had dinner together, Ian had spag bol and I had paella. We both had a good night's sleep and on the Camino 6.15am. Passed through some beautiful, historic villages and had our photo taken at the font where Santo Domingo was baptized in 1019. Met up with John and Linda and shared boiled eggs, sardines and crackers at midday. Managed to get last room in this hotel in Belorado. A cool beer after a shower, then rest. Thank you to Viti and Joan for the AB's score.
Off to explore historic area of the town and the Iglesia. Only 342 miles to go! Both holding up fine.
